The Sea in Salem MA and J.M.W. Turner

This weekend brought me back to the Peabody Essex Museum to view the special exhibit, Turner & the Sea, which runs through September 1st. If you find yourself in Salem, MA looking to move beyond the kitschy occult you will want to stop in the P.E.M. for this summer show which perfectly complements this city’s rich maritime history. Turner includes a wide range of paintings depicting landscapes both merchant and military in oil, water color, and sketches and has samplings not only from the eponymous master but several other notable artists as well.

J.M.W. Turner’s The Battle of Trafalgar 21 October 1805 is monumental in scale and boasts a perspective akin to an IMAX virtual reality while one is standing in front of it. For this reason alone this painting must be experienced in person so that one can appreciate the immersive effect that draws you in as if you have just survived the legendary battle and are caught up in a swirl of bloodied humanity and chilling waves. In clear contrast to the Nicholas Pocock paintings nearby that show the beginning and end of the “action” with a distant omniscience, Turner’s rendering in medias res brings the heart of the conflict to life. As England would expect, Turner has done his duty and so has the P.E.M. by bringing this fantastic exhibit to Salem.

For more information on this adventure check out the museum website.

Also: given that almost everyone who visits Salem asks about “witches” I thought it worth noting that the twenty victims of the 1692 trials all perished between June and September, and a memorial courtyard lies just behind the museum. If you do make the trip to see Turner, be sure to stop by this site before getting drawn into the many sideshows that dot the city.

A travel blog for Thanksgiving

Often when I feel inspired to write about my travels I’ll highlight a distant place I rarely see and long to remember. Today though my travels took me to the same place I always go and sometimes need to escape. There may be nothing less inspiring than a commuter rail train where passengers waddle like drones and drop their heads as if already defeated before the day begins. Almost universally you will find them wrapped in electronic cocoons punctuated by white antennas that bud out from their ears. A silent dance begins with the singular goal of maintaining the greatest distance from anyone else despite the reality that with each stop the masses will swell and personal space will be negated. We wiz by marshland and abandoned factories but no one is looking outside to notice or contemplate.
For my own part I sit and read the Times, focusing in on a slide show about Herat and the tenuous progress being made there. To me the images barely suggest survival let alone a hint of modernity. Afghanistan seems immeasurably more distant than miles between us and I can’t fathom the reality of actually being there. Who could even begin to connect with the faces in front me? And that’s when it happened: I looked up and found reality closer than expected.
The guy sitting next to me is the only one around not bathed in blue light. He’s large, very large and has his hair cut high and tight. He’s mumbling silently and thumbing through an actual book with real pages. He seems focused. The book has an odd script and he is going over the same line again and again. I realize quickly that it’s Arabic and clearly not his native tongue. Though I never ask I wonder to myself if he has already seen combat. I wonder when he is going back.
It is Thanksgiving week here in the States and most of us will be easing off work a bit. The commuter trains will empty into regional rails and long backups on the highways. Meanwhile this soldier will head off to war and try to bridge a culture divide of immense proportions. We never talked, but I wish him well and will remember what I am truly thankful for this week.